Hello From Toronto: A Bike Tour Through The Don Valley, Leaside, Salsa On St. Clair And Sunnyside Beach

My summery biking adventures through Torontoravines that criss-cross the city, have remained
continue. This morning I packed my backpack andlargely untouched by development and provide a
as usual I entered the Taylor Creek Park system.natural oasis in this densely populated metropolis.
Heading down into the lush green river valley thatThese ravines were formed when rivers and
is fully closed in by trees and bushes on bothcreeks cut deep gouges into the glacial deposits
sides is always such a great feeling, as if the bigthat were left over after the last ice age about
city was miles away. A few kilometers west my12,000 years ago. Due to the danger of flooding
trail joined up with the Don Valley biking trail and Ithese ravines are largely uninhabitable and have
started to ride south. But instead of heading allremained virtually completely in their natural state.
the way down to Toronto's lakefront, I saw anToday, Toronto's ravine lands are protected by
old road branching off to the right north ofmunicipal bylaws. Cedarvale Park is located in one
Pottery Road and I thought I would just ride inof those ravines and riding westwards I looked up
there and see what I could discover. I had neverto admire the structure of the Bathurst Street
before left the main trail and was curious toBridge. I arrived at the western end of Cedarvale
explore this new area. Actually, I thought I wouldPark where a cricket match was in full swing.
arrive at the Don Valley Brickworks, the leftoversBack on city streets I cycled south into a St. Clair
of an industrial brick making complex dating backWest neighbourhood called Hillcrest Village which
to the late 1880s that was closed down somewas just celebrating Latin culture with its big
time ago. The bricks from this quarry were usedannual festival: Salsa on St. Clair. First launched in
on many famous Toronto landmarks, including2005 Salsa on St. Clair has become a popular
Casa Loma, Osgoode Hall and Queens Park (thestreet festival that features all sorts of Latin
Ontario Legislature building). The green spacemusic performances, street vendors, Latin
surrounding the empty buildings has been turnedAmerican delicacies and special events. Salsa
into a public park by the city. But as I continuedlessons, jumping castles, children's soccer
the road turned into a narrow pathway thatcompetitions and all sorts of free samples and
crossed a field and the path started taking me ingiveaways enchanted the crowds. From here I
a northwesterly direction, away from thecycled south on Christie Street and then headed
Brickworks. Now I was really wondering whereover to Ossington and south to Queen Street. In
this path was going to lead. After crossing somea small neighbourhood park I ran across a large
more meadows the path took me into a forestedgroup of teenagers dressed up as medieval
area where the narrow trail continued, sometimesknights who were practicing their jousting skills.
over roots and stones, sometimes beside someSometimes Toronto is truly like a box of
railway tracks. Now you might think that it couldchocolates: you never know what you're gonna
be quite dangerous for a woman by herself ridingget...Once on Queen Street I cycled past recently
these trails, but I actually felt quite safe. The onlyrenovated landmarks like the Drake Hotel and the
people I encountered were a father and daughterGladstone Hotel into the Parkdale neighbourhood,
team who were enjoying their own little mountainone of the most colourful areas in Toronto. The
bike adventure. I kept riding through the forest,neighbourhood underwent a serious decline and
up and down and at some point I saw a road justtoday features a large aIn the late 1800 Parkdale
above the embankment that I was cycling beside,was an upscale residential suburb of Toronto that
but my suspense grew as to where I wouldfeatured great Victorian mansions and superb
actually end up. Finally I saw an opening in a fenceviews of Lake Ontario. Today the neighbourhood
at the edge of the forest and I realized I hadis being revitalized due to its beautiful architecture,
popped up at the southeastern end of theestablished trees and favourable location close to
Loblaws Supermarket in Leaside. This was quite adowntown and Lake Ontario. Signs of
bit further north than I had anticipated. So backgentrification are noticeable everywhere. The
on city streets I decided to ride through theVictorian mansions on Cowan Avenue impressed
residential area of Leaside, one of the mostme and as I got closer to the Lake I can only
popular residential areas in Toronto. Settled asimagine what a beautiful residential district this
early as the beginning of the 19th century by themust have been in its heyday. I crossed the
Lea family, the Town of Leaside came into beingrailway tracks and the Gardener Expressway
in 1913. Today many houses from the early 20thnear Jameson Avenue and arrived at the
century remain and are being renovated ormulti-purpose trail in Marilyn Bell Park on Toronto's
expanded. Leaside has become particularly popularlakefront. Close to a century ago this was one of
with real estate investors who buy some of thethe most popular areas in Toronto and featured a
small single story bungalows and convert themlarge amusement park from 1922 onwards. The
into two or three story mansions. Bayviewarea was drastically changed in the 1950s with the
Avenue marks the western boundary of Leasideconstruction of the Gardiner Expressway which
and is a popular entertainment area with lots ofessentially reduced the parkland in half and led to
retail stores, cafes and restaurants. I cycled souththe destruction of the amusement park. Today,
on Bayview to the Intersection of Moore Avenuethe only original buildings remaining from this era
where there is a local landmark: a concreteare the Palais Royale (a recently restored ballroom
moose that is located in front of a companyand banquet facility), and the Sunnyside Bathing
called IntegraCare, a private nursing company.Pavilion which houses a popular waterfront
From April to October of 2000, the City ofcafé. Despite these changes, Toronto's
Toronto was graced by 172 moose sculptureswestern waterfront in Humber Bay is hugely
that were located all over the city and paintedpopular with people. Walkers, picnickers, inline
and decorated by local artists. The event wasskaters and bikers make extensive use of the
called "Moose in the City" and similar in idea toWaterfront Trail. Three beach volleyball nets
other animal sculpture campaigns in places such asgrace the narrow strip of sand in front of the
Chicago, Mexico City etc. After the completion ofcafé and a boardwalk made from recycled
the campaign the moose were auctioned off forplastic invites for a walk on the waterfront. I
charitable purposes and more than 75 localgrabbed myself a slice of pizza and relaxed a bit
charities benefit from this unique fundraising idea.on bench, watching the comings and goings in a
Events like "Toronto's Running of the Moose!" andbeautiful sunny spot by the water. I then started
"Moose Jam on City Streets" enlivened theheading eastwards along the Waterfront Trail past
campaign and entertained the public. I figuredOntario Place, a multi-purpose entertainment and
Integracare must have purchased one of theseseasonal amusement park. Opened in 1971 Ontario
moose sculptures and after doing some researchPlace consists of three artificial islands that feature
on the Internet I found out that the moose'swalking trails, food and drink concessions, an IMAX
name is "Florence Moosengale, RM (Registeredtheatre located in a geodesic dome-shaped
Moose)", her name obviously inspired by Florencestructure, an amusement park for children and an
Nightingale, the founder of modern nursing. Threeoutdoor concert facility, the Molson Amphitheatre.
Integracare employees regularly create newImmediately adjacent to Ontario Place is
costumes for the moose which has been dressedCoronation Park, a park centered around a royal
up as Santa Clause, a witch for Halloween, a pinkoak tree that was planted in tribute to King
Easter Bunny, a prison inmate, a lady bug, and inGeorge VI. Right in front of the park is a marina
many other outfits. Currently Florence is dressedthat houses hundreds of sailboats. Cycling further
up as a rider in the Tour de France, completeeast I passed by the recently renovated Tip Top
with a yellow jersey and an oversized bicycle.Tailor Building, a historic property built in 1929 in
Well, this moose always makes me chuckle and Itrue Art Deco style. From here I snaked onto
truly applaud the efforts of the three ladies atQueen's Quay and made a stop at the Toronto
Integracare in brightening up the intersection ofMusic Garden, a waterfront garden that was
Bayview and Moore Avenue. From here I rodeinspired by Bach's First Suite for Unaccompanied
into the Mount Pleasant Cemetery, Toronto'sCello and designed by internationally renowned
largest cemetery which stretches from Bayviewcellist Yo Yo Ma and landscape designer Julie Moir
Avenue in the east to Yonge Street in the west.Messervy. The Toronto Music Garden features
Originally conceived in 1873, the cemetery openingspiral-shaped walkways surrounded by lush shrubs
in late 1876 and became the final resting place forand flowers and is highlighted by an outdoor
more than 160,000 Toronto citizens. Theamphitheatre that offers free concerts to the
cemetery holds many local celebrities, includingpublic. My ride continued to Harbourfront, a popular
Frederick Banting - the co-discoverer of insulin,entertainment area at Toronto's waterfront.
Timothy Eaton - a Canadian department storeHarbourfront Centre, a former warehouse, today
magnate, Hart Massey - a 19th century tycoon inholds a high-end shopping centre, commercial
the farm equipment business, Robert Simpson -office spaces and condominiums. The bottom level
another Canadian department store magnate,also features restaurants and outdoor patios that
pianist Glenn Gould and W. Garfield Weston, alook out on the docking facilities for the many
business magnate and member of one oftourist boats that depart from here for harbour
Canada's most wealthy families. By accident Itours. Free concerts are held every weekend at
came across the grave of William Lyon MackenzieHarbourfront on the Concert Stage while the
King, one of Canada's longest-serving and mostWorld Café and the International
influential prime ministers. Although inline-skating isMarketplace feature foods and merchandise from
prohibited it is possible to ride a bicycle in thearound the world. Additional cultural offerings are
cemetery and many people also use this beautifulprovided by the Power Plant Gallery, the Premiere
environment to go walking or jogging. TheDance Theatre, the Enwave Theatre and the
gravestones in the western, older section of theYork Quay Centre. A Cuban music group was
cemetery are particularly beautiful, and its largeenchanting the crowd at the Concert Stage.
tree collection makes it one of North America'sFinally, after an action-packed day full of
finest arboretums. I then crossed Yonge Streetexplorations and almost 60 km of riding I got on
and rode west along Heath Street in order tomy iron horse one last time to make the 45
avoid the busy traffic along St. Clair Avenue. Theminute trek home along Toronto's lakefront.
surrounding Forest Hill neighbourhood is one ofSummer in Toronto is amazing; I had cycled from
Toronto's most affluent areas. Today many hugesecluded nature areas, through a Victorian-era
mansions grace the neighbourhood and two elitecemetery to a Latin festival, enjoyed the
private schools, Upper Canada College for boys,waterfront and caught two more free concerts in
and the Bishop Strachan School, a prestigious dayor near Harbourfront. There is so much going on
and boarding school for girls, are also located here.in this city in the summer and the bicycle is the
Underneath the canopy of leafy trees I turnedideal way to explore it.
onto a street called Lower Village Gate andSusanne Pacher is the publisher of a web portal
unexpectedly found myself in Toronto's Ravinefor unconventional travel & cross-cultural
system. One of the most distinctive features ofconnections.
Toronto's topography is a multitude of deep