| Egypt is where history first emerged. It is here | | | | people, related to the people of the north of the |
| that we have the first pictographic record of | | | | Sudan. You can see some Nubian villages at |
| events and persons. Hieroglyphics, the system of | | | | Elephantine Island. The Nubian museum celebrates |
| writing used by ancient Egyptians can be traced | | | | Nubian culture right from prehistoric times. Aswan |
| back to about 3200 BC. At about 3180 BC, the | | | | was once an important centre for Christian Copts. |
| nations of Upper and Lower Egypt were brought | | | | You can see the ruins of the once majestic |
| under the rule of a single king titled Pharaoh. The | | | | Monastery of St Simeon, which was destroyed |
| first Pharaoh is thought to have been Menes, who | | | | by the conqueror Saladin (Salah ad-Din) in 1173 |
| set his capital at Memphis, 22 km south of Giza in | | | | AD. |
| today's Cairo. The Pharaohs established the | | | | Aswan was the source of the granite stone that |
| systems that brought forth the highly successful | | | | the Pharaohs favoured for building temples and |
| Egyptian civilization. | | | | other monuments. The Northern Quarries are the |
| The history of Ancient Egypt lasted for about | | | | site of the giant Unfinished Obelisk. Had the obelisk |
| 3,000 years. Ancient Egypt declined, was overrun | | | | been successfully completed, it would be the |
| and thereafter ruled by foreign powers. The | | | | single heaviest piece of monolithic stonework |
| Greeks and Romans who ruled after the decline | | | | -reaching about 42 m and weiging over 1168 |
| were aware of the great similarity between their | | | | tonnes. It must have broken the hearts of the |
| own gods and those of the Egyptians. They not | | | | builders, who supposedly abandoned it, after |
| only tolerated Egyptian religion, but also expanded | | | | coming across defects in the rock formation. |
| existing temples and dedicated new ones to | | | | The next stop on the cruise is Kom Ombo, 48 |
| existing cults. Some of the new overlords, | | | | km to the north of Aswan. The main attraction |
| Alexander the Great for example, styled | | | | here is the Graeco-Roman temple. Work on the |
| themselves as divine priest-kings in imitation of | | | | temple was started by Ptolemy VII in early |
| the Pharaohs. | | | | second century BC and continued by some of his |
| Emperor Theodosius, who reigned after | | | | successors. The Romans Emperor Augustus built |
| Christianity became the state religion in Rome, | | | | part of the temple at around 30 BC. The Temple |
| extinguished the last remnants of the living culture. | | | | of Kom Ombo actually consists of two separate |
| The Egyptians worshipped hundreds of gods - a | | | | temples, each with its own entrance, colonnades, |
| great offense against the monotheistic religions; | | | | hypostyle hall and sanctuary. The southern temple |
| whose first article of faith is that there is only one | | | | is dedicated to Sobek -the crocodile god, while the |
| God. Theodosius decreed in AD 391that all pagan | | | | northern one honours Horus -the falcon god. |
| temples in the Roman Empire be closed. The | | | | Though the two gods shared the same grounds, |
| Arabs, who brought Islam to Egypt in 640 AD, | | | | in mythology, Sobek was associated with the god |
| also had no time for deities such as Anubis the | | | | Seth, an enemy of Horus. At Kom Ombo, the |
| jackal, Horus the falcon god or even Amon the | | | | gods took the liberty to bring along family - |
| king of the gods. | | | | Sobek sneaked in his consort Hathor and son |
| Ancient Egypt was dead for one thousand five | | | | Khonsu, while Horus had his wife Tesentnefert |
| hundred years, until the French came across the | | | | and son, Panebtawy. If you have not seen |
| Rosetta Stone in the nineteenth century invasion | | | | mummies before, be sure to see the mummified |
| of Egypt by Napoleon. This priceless discovery | | | | crocodiles in the Sobek part of the temple. |
| was inscribed in both Greek and Egyptian, and it | | | | At Edfu, you disembark to see the Temple of |
| was the key that allowed the deciphering of | | | | Horus. Edfu was the cult centre of Horus the |
| Hieroglyphics by Jean-Francois Champollion in 1822. | | | | falcon god. It is perhaps the best preserved of |
| The voluminous literature produced by Ancient | | | | ancient temples of Egypt. The temple standing |
| Egyptians was now accessible to curious scholars. | | | | today was started by Ptolemy III at about 237 |
| This rekindled great interest in Ancient Egypt in | | | | BC on the site of an earlier Pharaonic structure. |
| the West that remains undiminished to this day. | | | | Work continued under some of the Ptolemies that |
| Religion is the common theme running through the | | | | followed. Appropriately, the entrance adorned by |
| attractions of ancient Egypt. The diversity of | | | | two majestic granite falcons. The walls bear |
| gods found worthy of worship is astounding. | | | | reliefs depicting Horus. One scene would please |
| There were over 2,000 of them of either sex | | | | any tyrant -it shows Ptolemy XII dealing |
| and they supposedly manifested themselves to | | | | mercilessly with his enemies. |
| earthlings as animals. There were overlaps and | | | | You next stop and highlight of the cruise is Luxor. |
| the same gods could be known with different | | | | The range, magnificence and diversity of the |
| names in various parts of the country. There was | | | | monuments in the Luxor area is unsurpassed in all |
| hardly any part of the life experience that was | | | | of Egypt. Known to the Greeks as Thebes, Luxor |
| not assigned a deity- digestion, mummification, | | | | became the capital of Egypt at around 2040 BC. |
| sexuality, feasting, childbirth, writing - you name it. | | | | The city survived the sacking by the Assyrians in |
| Some gods came and went out of fashion, but | | | | the 7th century BC, but steadily declined, and was |
| those connected with basic aspects of life were | | | | finally destroyed by the Romans in the first |
| enduring. Such deities had cults and temples | | | | century BC. Among the celebrated monuments |
| dedicated to them. | | | | dating from Luxor's heydays are the necropolis |
| The afterlife was taken very seriously, and a lot | | | | complexes at the Valley of the Kings, Valley of |
| of the monuments relate to preparation for that | | | | the Queens and Tombs of the Nobles. You will |
| glorious time. Mortuary and burial preparation was | | | | also come across some outstanding temples |
| so elaborate as to ensure a painless and | | | | scattered in the region. |
| enjoyable afterlife. The custom of mummification, | | | | The Egyptians buried their dead in the direction of |
| for example, was seen as necessary for the soul | | | | the setting sun and the west bank at Luxor was |
| needed a physical body to occupy in the other | | | | the final resting place of royalty and high officials. |
| world. There was however great inequality in | | | | The Valley of Kings is where the rulers of the |
| preparation for eternal life. The Pharaohs and | | | | period historians refer to as the New Kingdom |
| other royals, nobles and key officials were | | | | period (BC 1550-1070) awaited the afterlife. The |
| mummified and accompanied by grave goods and | | | | Pharaoh normally picked the spot for his tomb |
| great treasure. The common folk who could not | | | | and had it built in his lifetime. Tomb building for |
| afford the full treatment had to do with | | | | royalty and high officials was very serious |
| statuettes of mummies. | | | | business and it supported a battery of architects |
| The main draw to Egypt is the legacy of the | | | | and craftsmen, who had a settlement in the |
| Pharaohs and the Greeks and Romans who ruled | | | | valley. The valley contains over 60 tombs that |
| after them. Basically this legacy is associated with | | | | have so far been excavated. |
| temples, tombs and burial places. People in Egypt | | | | The tombs have suffered in recent years due to |
| from the earliest times to present have always | | | | increased number of visitors, pollution and the |
| lived along the River Nile and this is where you | | | | rising ground water that has come with the |
| find the richest harvest of ancient monuments. As | | | | Aswan High Dam. For this reason, not all of them |
| many travelers will testify, the best way to | | | | are open to the public at any one time. Unless |
| experience classical Egypt is by taking a Nile cruise. | | | | you are a scholar, visiting three or four tombs |
| The cruise is a very pleasant and relaxing way to | | | | should be sufficient. Among the best tombs are |
| get close to the attractions of antiquity, most of | | | | those of Ramses I, Tuthmosis III and Ramses VI. |
| which are not far off from the banks of the river. | | | | Tutankhamun's is today the most famous - |
| You also get a glimpse of rural Egypt where | | | | though he is not considered a significant Pharaoh |
| many eke out a living just as their forbearers did | | | | and he died at only nineteen. |
| thousands of years ago. | | | | Treasure hunters had over the years looted most |
| The typical Nile cruiser is really a floating hotel. | | | | tombs in the valley. But Howard Carter, the British |
| Amenities on board will include lounges, | | | | archeologist, discovered Tutankhamun's tomb |
| restaurants, bars, swimming pool, discotheque and | | | | almost intact in 1922. The treasure that was |
| shops. The rooms are rather smaller than those | | | | found here is truly amazing- statues, chests, |
| of a land based hotels but will have air | | | | chariots, beds, weapons, and many items he |
| conditioning, TV and enough room for twin beds, | | | | needed for the afterlife. The main item today at |
| private shower, nightstand and dresser. The | | | | Tutankhamun's tomb is his mummy. About 1700 |
| quality of cruisers varies and they are graded | | | | items recovered at the tomb are now at display |
| with stars just like hotels. Top end cruisers have | | | | at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The most |
| spacious suites and amenities almost equal to | | | | outstanding of the collection is the 11 kg solid gold |
| those of ocean cruisers. Generally, the quality and | | | | death mask. Imagine then, what the looters |
| romance of Nile cruisers surpasses other | | | | carried off from the bigger tombs of the more |
| riverboats anywhere else in the world. | | | | illustrious Pharaohs! |
| Nile cruises normally take three, four or seven | | | | On the other side of the Valley of Kings is the |
| nights. You will be able to see the most important | | | | Temple of Deir el-Bahri, built by Queen |
| and interesting monuments on the shorter and | | | | Hatshepsut. Hatseput. The temple is very |
| more popular cruises that ply between Luxor and | | | | impressive from a distance and is a great place to |
| Aswan. The longer sail takes you up to Dendera. | | | | take photos. The name Valley of the Queens is |
| The boats sail both downstream and upstream | | | | misleading, as both male and female royals and |
| and on the shorter cruises, you can embark at | | | | some high officials were interred here. About 80 |
| either Aswan or Luxor. The more adventurous | | | | tombs have been identified, of which the most |
| travelers or those on a tight budget avoid the | | | | famous is that of Queen Nefertari. Take more |
| luxury cruisers in favour of fellucas- the traditional | | | | photos at the Colossi of Memnon -two huge |
| Nile sailboats. Though amenities onboard fellucas | | | | statues that are the sole legacy of the temple of |
| are very basic, those who can survive them, visit | | | | Amenhotep III. |
| all the attractions along the Nile at a fraction of | | | | Amenhotep III also built the Temple of Luxor on |
| the cost of the cruisers. | | | | the east bank. The temple was dedicated to the |
| At Aswan, the Nile is deep, calm and is at its | | | | god Amon, though inside you also find a shrine |
| most glorious. It is a good place to embark on | | | | dedicated to Alexander the Great. The temple's |
| your Nile cruise. Aswan was for long Egypt's | | | | entrance is lined with Sphinxes, and inside you find |
| southern frontier city and its gateway to Africa. | | | | colonnades, courts, obelisks and wall murals. The |
| This was the region known as Upper Egypt, being | | | | mosque of Shaykh Yusuf Abu al-Hajjaj was built |
| upstream of the Nile. After Aswan, the Nile | | | | on top of part of the temple. You can also visit |
| passes through a section of hard rock, resulting in | | | | the Luxor Museum, which has interesting exhibits |
| rapids or cataracts. Thus by nature did Aswan | | | | from the area. |
| attain its strategic position and it has served as a | | | | The incredibly impressive Temple of Karnak is a |
| garrison town for those who have ruled Egypt | | | | huge complex that was dedicated to the god |
| over the centuries. And for this reason, there are | | | | Amon. In the New Kingdom period, this was the |
| monuments here associated with the Pharaohs, | | | | most important temple is Egypt. It is probably the |
| Greeks, Romans, Christian Copts and Islam. | | | | largest religious building ever and it can carry no |
| At Aswan, make sure to visit the Philae Temple. | | | | less than 10 average Christian cathedrals. Some |
| Ptolemy II started the temple when the Greeks | | | | of the interesting structures within the complex |
| ruled, and the Romans completed it. It was | | | | are the gigantic hypostyle hall, the Kiosk of |
| dedicated to the goddess Isis, an important figure | | | | Tarhaka, statue of Ramses II, temple of Ramses |
| in Egyptian mythology that was worshipped | | | | III and the sacred lake. |
| across the Roman Empire. Even after Emperor | | | | The best time to take a Nile cruise is over the |
| Theodosius ordered all pagan temples to cease | | | | cooler months of November - March. These are |
| operations, Isis was still being glorified at Philae, | | | | also the peak months and to avoid crowds, |
| until about AD 550 when Emperor Justinian finally | | | | always start out early each day. October, at the |
| shut down the temple. The early Christians | | | | end the hot season is tolerable, especially when |
| converted the temple's hypostyle hall into a | | | | you factor in that it falls with off-season period: it |
| chapel. For good measure, they defaced some of | | | | is cheaper ad less crowded. When visiting the |
| the pagan reliefs adorning its walls. | | | | monuments, you are advised to hire a guide who |
| The temple forms an excellent backdrop for the | | | | will explain the historical context at each site. If |
| nightly sound-and-light show. The temple was | | | | you are on a Nile Cruise package, the services of |
| nearly lost after the Aswan High Dam was | | | | a guide will usually be included. |
| commissioned in the 1960's. It took UNESCO and | | | | You do a lot of walking, and you need to bring |
| the Egyptian government ten years to move it, | | | | along suitable shoes. Other items you ware |
| one stone at a time, to higher ground on Agilka | | | | encouraged to pack are: sunglasses and sun |
| Island. Most people also visit Elephantine Island, | | | | screen lotion. Remember also to carry bottled |
| which has temples and a museum. The Island has | | | | water and photographic film, which you can buy |
| been inhabited since about 3000 BC and was an | | | | at the cruiser or at a bazaar. Light clothing is |
| important trading and cultural centre. | | | | generally recommended though you may need a |
| Aswan is home of the Nubians, a dark skinned | | | | sweater and jacket for winter evenings. |